Buying Cars on Facebook Marketplace

Buying a car on Marketplace can save you thousands compared to dealerships. But it’s also the highest-stakes purchase you’ll make here. One wrong move and you’re stuck with someone else’s problem. Here’s how to do it right.

Before you even message the seller

1. Run a VIN check

Ask for the VIN in your first message. Any reluctance here is a red flag.

Where to check:

• Carfax ($40 single report or subscription)
• AutoCheck (often cheaper, owned by Experian)
• NMVTIS ($10, government database, basic but official)
• vehiclehistory.com (free basic check)

What you’re looking for:

• Accident history
• Title issues (salvage, rebuilt, flood)
• Odometer readings over time
• Service records
• Number of previous owners
• Whether it was a rental, lease, or commercial vehicle

Important: A clean Carfax doesn’t mean a clean car. Not all accidents get reported. The inspection matters more than the report.

2. Research the market value

Check what the same make, model, year, and mileage sells for:

• Kelley Blue Book (kbb.com)
• Edmunds
• Search completed Marketplace listings in your area

If a car is priced 20%+ below market, ask yourself why.

3. Check the seller’s profile

Look for:

• How old is the account?
• Do they have friends, photos, activity?
• Are they local?
• Do they have multiple cars listed?

Multiple cars = possible curbstoner. Curbstoners are unlicensed dealers posing as private sellers to avoid regulations and disclosures. They flip cars for profit and won’t tell you about problems.

Questions to ask before meeting

Get these answered via message:

1. Why are you selling? Listen for specific reasons (upgrading, moving, second car) vs vague answers.

2. How long have you owned it? Short ownership + quick resale = possible problems.

3. Are you the titled owner? Never buy from someone selling a car that’s not in their name.

4. Is the title clean? Ask directly. Salvage and rebuilt titles affect value by 20-40%.

5. Any accidents or damage? Even if Carfax is clean, ask. Their answer tells you a lot.

6. Can I have it inspected by my mechanic? A “no” is a dealbreaker.

7. What’s needed to pass inspection/emissions? (In states that require it)

The in-person inspection

Meet at their home if possible. You want to see where the car lives. A driveway tells you things—oil spots, how it’s stored, what else they drive.

Exterior check

Body alignment:

• Stand at each corner and sight down the body panels
• Gaps between panels should be even
• Misaligned panels = previous accident repair

Paint check:

• Look for color variations between panels
• Check for orange peel texture differences
• Run your hand along panels—feel for ripples or filler
• Look at the car in direct sunlight if possible

Rust inspection:

• Check wheel wells, rocker panels, door bottoms
• Open the trunk—check spare tire well for rust
• Look under floor mats

Glass:

• Chips or cracks in windshield
• Check VIN etching on windows matches dashboard VIN

Tires:

• Check tread depth (use a penny—Lincoln’s head should be partially covered)
• Uneven wear indicates alignment issues
• Are all four tires the same brand? Mismatched = deferred maintenance

Interior check

Start without turning on the car:

• What do you smell? Mold, smoke, heavy air freshener (covering something)?
• Check carpets for water stains or dampness
• Look for mismatched carpet or upholstery (flood repair)
• Check all seat adjustments and functions

Warning lights:

• Turn key to “on” without starting
• All warning lights should illuminate, then go off when started
• If the check engine light doesn’t come on initially, it may have been disabled

Electronics:

• Test every button, every feature
• AC (does it blow cold?)
• Heat (does it get hot?)
• All power windows, locks, mirrors
• Infotainment, backup camera
• Lights (headlights, taillights, signals, brake lights)

Under the hood

Fluids:

• Oil: Check level and color (black = old, milky = coolant leak = bad)
• Coolant: Should be at proper level, correct color, no oil residue
• Transmission fluid: Pink/red is good, brown/burnt smell is bad
• Brake fluid: Should be clear to light yellow

Belts and hoses:

• Look for cracks, wear, or glazing on belts
• Squeeze hoses—should be firm, not brittle or spongy

Battery:

• Check for corrosion on terminals
• Look for date sticker—batteries last 3-5 years

Listen:

• Start the car cold if possible (that’s when problems show)
• Any ticking, knocking, or unusual sounds?

The test drive

Don’t skip this. And don’t let the seller rush you.

Before moving:

• Check brake pedal feel (should be firm)
• Note how it idles (smooth, no vibration)

During drive:

• Test acceleration—does it hesitate or surge?
• Brake from various speeds—any vibration or pulling?
• Hit some bumps—listen for suspension noises
• Get on the highway—test at speed
• Turn off the radio and listen
• Try tight turns—any clicking (CV joint issues)?

After drive:

• Check for new fluid spots where you parked
• Let it idle—does it run rough when hot?

Flood damage detection

After hurricanes and floods, damaged cars flow into the market nationwide. Title washing—registering a flood car in a state with weaker disclosure laws—is common.

Signs of flood damage:

• Musty or moldy smell
• Waterline marks in the trunk, under dashboard, or door jambs
• Rust in unexpected places (screws, brackets, behind trim)
• Sand or silt in crevices
• Mismatched carpets or new carpets on an old car
• Fogging inside headlights or taillights
• Electrical gremlins (malfunctioning lights, gauges, windows)
• Check Carfax—where was the car registered? Coastal areas or recent disaster zones?

The pre-purchase inspection

This is non-negotiable for any car over $5,000.

Bring it to an independent mechanic (not the seller’s shop). A PPI costs $100-200 and can save you thousands.

What they’ll check:

• Compression test
• Brake wear and condition
• Suspension components
• Fluid leaks
• Engine mounts
• Exhaust system
• Frame damage
• Electrical systems

Use the report to negotiate. If the mechanic finds $800 in needed repairs, that’s $800 off your offer.

Title and paperwork

You must see:

• The title (in the seller’s name)
• Valid registration
• Driver’s license matching the title name

Title checks:

• Is it signed and dated correctly?
• Does the VIN match the dashboard and door jamb?
• Is the mileage disclosed and accurate?
• Any liens listed? (Lienholder must sign off before sale)

Red flag: “Title is at the bank” or “I can mail it to you.” Never take a car without the title in hand.

Bill of sale:

• Required in most states
• Include: VIN, sale price, date, both parties’ info
• “As-is” language protects the seller, not you—but it’s standard for private sales

What’s a fair price?

Private party prices should be below dealer retail. Use this framework:

Condition	Compared to KBB Private Party
Excellent	At or above KBB
Good	5-10% below KBB
Fair	15-20% below KBB
Needs work	25-40% below KBB

Negotiation leverage:

• Anything the inspection reveals
• Needed maintenance (tires, brakes, timing belt)
• Cosmetic issues
• Market data (“similar cars are listed at…”)
• Cash in hand, ready to close today

Curbstoner warning signs

Curbstoners cost you consumer protections and often sell problematic vehicles.

How to spot them:

• Meets you in a parking lot, not their home
• Multiple cars listed from “motivated seller”
• Very polished, dealer-like photos
• Vague about ownership history
• Reluctant to provide VIN before meeting
• Has detailed responses ready (they’ve done this before)

Why it matters: Private sales have fewer legal protections than dealer sales. But if someone is secretly a dealer, you may have recourse. Document everything.

The payment

Safest methods:

1. Cash (meet at a bank for large amounts)
2. Cashier’s check (verify with the bank before handing it over)
3. Bank transfer (from your bank’s parking lot)

Never:

• Wire money before seeing the car
• Pay a deposit to “hold” the car
• Accept a payment plan (you won’t have title protection)
• Use Venmo/Zelle for large amounts (hard to recover if scammed)

Your complete checklist

Before meeting:

• VIN check completed
• Market value researched
• Seller profile reviewed
• Questions answered via message

At inspection:

• Meet at seller’s home
• Exterior inspection (alignment, paint, rust, tires)
• Interior inspection (smell, wear, electronics)
• Under hood check (fluids, belts, battery)
• Test drive (acceleration, brakes, handling, sounds)

Before buying:

• Pre-purchase inspection by independent mechanic
• Title in seller’s name, in hand
• VIN matches title, dashboard, and door jamb
• Negotiate based on inspection findings

At closing:

• Bill of sale signed by both parties
• Title properly signed and dated
• Payment verified (cash counted, cashier’s check validated)
• Keys, remotes, and any extras received

---

Looking at car listings on Facebook Marketplace? Spottable AI for Chrome helps you analyze deals, spot suspicious sellers, and track price changes—so you can focus on finding the right car.