Designer bags on Facebook Marketplace can be incredible deals—or incredibly convincing fakes. Counterfeits have gotten so good that even experts need to look closely. Here’s how to tell the difference and buy with confidence.
The counterfeiting reality
Let’s be direct: the counterfeit market is massive and sophisticated.
The levels of fakes:
- Obvious fakes ($20-50): Wrong logos, cheap materials, anyone can spot them
- Mid-tier replicas ($100-200): Better materials, decent construction, fool casual observers
- Superfakes ($300-600): Nearly identical to authentic, correct materials, precise stitching
Superfakes are the real concern. They use similar leather, accurate hardware, and replicate tiny details. Some are so good they’ve fooled consignment shops and authentication services.
Your defense: Know the specific bag you’re buying better than the seller does.
General authentication principles
These apply across all designer brands:
Stitching
Authentic bags have:
- Perfectly even stitch length
- Straight, consistent stitching lines
- Thread color matched precisely to the bag
- Clean backstitching with no loose threads
- Specific stitch counts (varies by brand and model)
Fakes often have:
- Uneven stitches (some longer, some shorter)
- Wobbly stitching lines
- Slightly off thread colors
- Visible loose threads or knots
- Wrong stitch counts
Pro tip: Count stitches. Many luxury brands have consistent stitch counts across their bags. A Neverfull handle should have exactly 5 stitches across. Get to know these details.
Leather quality
Authentic bags:
- Have a distinct leather smell (rich, natural, not chemical)
- Develop a patina over time (especially Louis Vuitton vachetta)
- Feel supple and luxurious
- Have natural variations (not perfectly uniform)
Fakes:
- Often smell like chemicals or plastic
- Don’t age naturally
- Feel stiff, plasticky, or overly uniform
- May be too perfect (real leather has character)
Hardware
Authentic hardware:
- Has weight—luxury hardware is substantial
- Engravings are clean, crisp, and correctly positioned
- Zippers glide smoothly
- Logo stamps are precise
- Metal has consistent color with no chipping
Fake hardware:
- Often feels lighter
- Engravings may be shallow, uneven, or wrong font
- Zippers may stick or feel cheap
- Logo stamps may be off-center or incorrect
- May show chipping or discoloration quickly
Packaging
Dust bags:
- Authentic dust bags have correct logo, font, and material
- Each brand has specific dust bag styles that changed over time
- Research what dust bag should accompany that specific era and style
Boxes and tags:
- Luxury brands don’t use cheap cardboard
- Tags have specific fonts, placement, and information
- Serial numbers should match the bag
Warning: Good fakes often come with convincing packaging. Don’t let a nice dust bag lower your guard.
Louis Vuitton authentication
Louis Vuitton is the most counterfeited luxury brand. Here’s what to check:
Date codes
LV bags have date codes (not serial numbers) that indicate where and when the bag was made.
Format (post-2007): Two letters + four numbers
- Letters = factory location
- Numbers = week and year (alternating digits)
- Example: FL1129 = Made in France, week 12 of 2019
Common factory codes:
- France: FL, LW, MB, MI, SD, TH
- Spain: CA, GI, LO, LB
- USA: FC, FH, OS, SD
Check it: The date code should be stamped into leather or on a tag inside the bag. Location varies by style—research where it should be for your specific bag.
Note: Starting in 2021, LV transitioned to microchips instead of date codes on new bags.
Canvas pattern
The monogram should:
- Be symmetrical on the front
- Have LV logos facing the correct direction
- Continue across seams properly (patterns align)
- Not be cut off awkwardly at edges
Check: The LV logo should never be cut in half at a seam. Fakes often get the pattern alignment wrong.
Vachetta leather
The natural cowhide leather (handles, trim) on LV bags:
- Starts pale and develops honey-brown patina
- Should tan evenly over time
- Authentic vachetta has a specific grainy texture
Red flag: If the vachetta is too uniformly colored or looks plastic-coated, it’s likely fake.
Heat stamping
The “Louis Vuitton Paris” and “Made in” stamps should be:
- Clean and evenly pressed
- Correct font (slightly sans-serif, not too thin or thick)
- Properly spaced
- Centered on the intended surface
Chanel authentication
Chanel bags are heavily counterfeited. Key authentication points:
Authenticity card and serial number
The card:
- Should have a hologram sticker (post-1984)
- Serial number matches the bag’s interior sticker
- Card stock is specific weight and finish
The serial number sticker:
- Located inside the bag (position varies by style)
- Has a hologram over two interlocking C’s
- Serial format indicates production year
Important: Chanel began using microchips in 2021, phasing out authenticity cards.
The CC lock
On Classic Flaps and similar bags:
- The right C overlaps the left C at the top
- The left C overlaps the right C at the bottom
- Edges should be smooth and consistent
- Turning mechanism should be smooth
Quilting
The quilting should:
- Be perfectly aligned—horizontal lines continue across the flap
- Have consistent puffiness throughout
- Have precise, even stitching following the diamond pattern
- Match front to back seamlessly
Chain strap
Authentic Chanel chains:
- Are heavy—significant weight
- Have leather woven smoothly through links
- Links have specific shapes (varies by era)
- Don’t kink or tangle easily
Gucci authentication
Serial number tag
Gucci bags have a leather tag with:
- “Gucci” on one side
- Serial number on the other (two rows of numbers)
- Top row: style number
- Bottom row: supplier code
Check: The tag should be stitched securely, and the stamp should be clean and readable.
GG pattern
The canvas pattern should:
- Have symmetry along the center
- Include both capital G’s interlocking
- Maintain consistent spacing
- Have specific color saturation (varies by style)
Hardware
Gucci hardware typically:
- Uses specific finishes (aged gold, shiny brass, silver-tone)
- Has “GUCCI” engraved cleanly
- Uses specific zipper pulls by era
- Feels substantial
Hermès authentication
Hermès bags are the highest investment—authentication is critical.
Blind stamp
Every Hermès bag has a blind stamp indicating:
- Year of production (letter code)
- Craftsman who made it (usually numbers)
Location: Typically under the front flap or on a strap
The stamp should:
- Be cleanly pressed into the leather
- Be readable but not too deep
- Follow correct format for that era
Stitching (saddle stitch)
Hermès uses traditional saddle stitching—hand-sewn with two needles.
It should:
- Have perfectly even stitches
- Tilt slightly (authentic hand-sewn characteristic)
- Use specific thread counts per centimeter
Leather quality
Hermès leather is exceptional:
- Deep, rich smell
- Supple but structured
- Develops beautiful patina
- Each leather type (Togo, Clemence, Epsom) has distinct characteristics
Using authentication services
For high-value bags ($500+), consider professional authentication:
Online services:
- Entrupy (AI-powered, widely used)
- Real Authentication (detailed written reports)
- Authenticate First (quick turnaround)
- Legit Check App (photo-based, accessible)
Cost: Usually $10-35 depending on bag value and service level
How it works:
- Submit photos following their guidelines
- Expert reviews specific details
- Receive pass/fail with explanation
When to use:
- Any bag over $500
- Brands with sophisticated counterfeits (Chanel, Hermès)
- If anything feels “off”
- Sellers who won’t meet in person
What’s a fair price?
Designer bags retain value well, but still depreciate:
| Condition | % of Retail |
|---|---|
| Like new with tags | 75-90% |
| Excellent (minimal wear) | 60-75% |
| Good (light wear) | 45-60% |
| Fair (visible wear) | 25-45% |
Bags that hold value exceptionally:
- Hermès Birkin and Kelly (can appreciate)
- Chanel Classic Flap (often at or above retail)
- Louis Vuitton Neverfull and Speedy (evergreen styles)
Bags that depreciate more:
- Trendy styles and limited editions (after hype fades)
- Non-classic colors
- Styles that were overproduced
Red flag pricing: If a Chanel Classic Flap is 50% below retail, something is wrong. These bags don’t lose half their value.
Your authentication checklist
Before meeting:
- Researched the specific bag style and era
- Know where date code/serial should be located
- Have reference photos from official sources
- Requested detailed photos (stitching, hardware, interior, date code)
In person:
- Stitching is even and consistent
- Leather smells authentic (not chemical)
- Hardware has weight and clean engravings
- Pattern alignment is correct
- Date code/serial number is present and correctly formatted
- Interior is clean and matches expected materials
- Zippers and closures function smoothly
After inspection:
- Consider third-party authentication for high-value bags
- Compare serial number format to known authentic examples
- Trust your instincts—if something feels off, walk away
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What to Look For
- Verify authenticity through stitching, hardware, and materials
- Check date codes or serial numbers (brand-specific)
- Examine logo placement and font consistency
- Verify dust bag and box authenticity (counterfeits get these wrong)
- Research the specific bag style—know what's authentic
- Ask for original receipt if claiming recent purchase
- Consider professional authentication for high-value pieces
Red Flags
- Price significantly below market (real luxury holds value)
- No close-up photos of hardware, stitching, or date code
- Stock photos or promotional images instead of actual item
- Seller has multiple 'authentic' designer items at low prices
- Refuses to provide additional photos when asked
- Won't meet in person for authentication check
Common Scams
- High-quality 'superfake' counterfeits
- Authentic bag with replaced hardware or parts
- Misrepresented vintage (actual condition worse than described)
- Stolen bags with removed serial numbers
- Bags with authenticity certificates (can be forged)
- 'Gift' bags with no proof of purchase
Deal Hunting Tips
- Vintage and discontinued styles often sell below retail
- Minor wear dramatically reduces price but not quality
- Classic styles (Neverfull, Speedy, Classic Flap) have strongest resale
- Authentication services cost $10-30 and provide peace of mind
- Local sellers allow in-person authentication before buying
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